探访上海豫园老字号汤圆：师傅每小时包2000只，日销5万只

新京报03-02

3月2日，上海豫园宁波汤团店外卖窗口排起长队。新京报贝壳财经记者俞金旻摄2月23日正月十四，元宵节的前一天，上海豫园商圈游人如织。在“宁波汤团店”门口早已排起了十几米长的队伍。新京报贝壳财经记者在现场看到，不少顾客已经手提刚买到的汤团礼盒。店内人声鼎沸，堂食需要排队等位，店内两口大锅热气沸腾，白雾缭绕中，老师傅们正快速捞起一颗颗浮起的汤团。“这几天每天都要卖出五万多只汤团，今天估计超七万只，明天...

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摄2月23日正月十四，元宵节的前一天，上海豫园商圈游人如织。在“宁波汤团店”门口早已排起了十几米长的队伍。新京报贝壳财经记者在现场看到，不少顾客已经手提刚买到的汤团礼盒。店内人声鼎沸，堂食需要排队等位，店内两口大锅热气沸腾，白雾缭绕中，老师傅们正快速捞起一颗颗浮起的汤团。“这几天每天都要卖出五万多只汤团，今天估计超七万只，明天（正月十五）估计要突破十万只。”宁波汤团店经理徐正留对贝壳财经记者表示。这家始创于1945年的老字号，承载着几代上海人关于元宵的味觉记忆。与北方以甜味为主的元宵不同，这里的蟹粉鲜肉汤团占据了销量榜首位。上海豫园宁波汤团店内师傅正在煮汤团。受访者供图老字号“两手抓”：“马形汤团”被抢购，传统肉汤团日销5万+“北方人可能会惊讶，元宵节居然吃咸的。”正在等餐的上海本地人王女士笑着说。她面前的碗里，四只胖乎乎的汤团散发着热气，咬开一口，鲜香的肉汁溢出。“这才是过节的味道。”贝壳财经记者观察到，店内点单区张贴的销量榜显示，蟹粉鲜肉汤团、鲜肉汤团位居前两位，而北方常见的黑芝麻等甜馅汤团反而排在后面。一位来自北京的游客尝过肉汤团后直呼“神奇”：“在北京，元宵都是甜的，第一次知道咸味元宵也这么好吃。”徐正留解释道：“上海及周边江浙地区，汤团与北方的元宵不仅在口味上有咸甜之分，制作工艺也完全不同。北方元宵是‘滚’出来的，把馅料切成小块沾水后放进糯米粉里摇；而我们的汤圆是‘包’出来的，用糯米面团把馅料包裹起来，口感更细腻。”在收银台旁，贝壳财经记者注意到，一组造型可爱的马形汤团吸引了不少顾客驻足。这组名为“马上发财”的生肖福团，是店内的季节限定产品，每日限量50组，售价32元。“虽然是限量，但销售情况很好，很多是外地游客买来当伴手礼。”徐正留说。上海豫园宁波汤团店创新的“马型汤团”。受访者供图记者注意到，店内的销售主力依然是传统产品。一位带着全家来购买的上海老爷爷说：“花哨的尝尝就好，过节还是要吃正宗的鲜肉汤团。”据店铺统计数据，春节假期以来，单日汤团销量突破五万只，而元宵节当天预计将达到十万只。为应对高峰，店方提前调配了充足人手。“留沪过年已经成为员工们的‘老传统’，我们有35个人一起在包都忙不过来，大家都知道元宵节是一年中最忙的时候。”徐正留表示。3月2日，上海豫园宁波汤团店内堂食客流一位难求。新京报贝壳财经记者俞金旻 摄师傅每小时包2000只，仍追不上年轻人的订单2024年，“上海宁波汤团制作技艺”被列入上海黄浦区非物质文化遗产代表性项目。徐正留认为，这不仅是对传统技艺的保护，也赋予了产品更高的文化附加值。“现在年轻人不仅为味道买单，也为文化认同买单。”传统节庆食品的消费呈现出明显的“节日高峰”特征。贝壳财经记者在店内后厨看到，10余名师傅正在忙碌地包制汤团。一个熟练工人每小时能包2000只左右汤团，但面对十万余只的日需求量，依然需要全员加班加点。“我们的鲜肉汤团用的是当天的猪肉，蟹粉也是新鲜拆出来的，不能提前太多制作。”徐正留说。据上海市商务委数据，今年春节期间，上海全市餐饮消费预计同比增长12%，其中传统节庆食品贡献率超过30%。随着元宵节到来，以宁波汤团店为代表的传统食品门店，正在用一碗碗热气腾腾的汤团，串联起传统与现代、本地与外地、咸味与甜味的消费图景。在这个团圆的日子里，食物不仅是味蕾的享受，更是文化的传承与经济的活力源泉。新京报贝壳财经记者 俞金旻 编辑 陈莉 校对 柳宝庆\n\n\n海量资讯、精准解读，尽在新浪财经APP","kind":"news","is_publish_news":true,"is_publish_highlight":false,"is_publish_live":false,"is_publish_wemedia":null,"editions":null,"column":"","sentiment":"0","news_tag":"","news_rank":0,"isVideo":false,"video":null,"symbols":[],"gpt_button":1,"need_auth":false,"need_login_tip":false,"code":"91000000","status":"200"},"commentList":[],"isCommentEnd":true,"newsSizeData":{"likeSize":0,"commentSize":0,"repostSize":0,"favoriteSize":0,"likeStatus":false,"favoriteStatus":false},"APP":{"userAgent":"Mozilla/5.0 AppleWebKit/537.36 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